It’s been a busy past few weeks. I
feel my work and my life here beginning to clarify as I become more comfortable
with the culture and the language and begin to develop more meaningful
friendships. A few weeks ago was the first annual Festival de Barohoah in
Ampefy, a celebration of a type of fish that is famous in my region and
throughout all of Madagascar. It was quite an event – on the first day of the
festival, the President of Madagascar, Andry Rajoelina, arrived and gave a
speech. It was very interesting to hear what he had to say, especially with
elections scheduled for next May, and then to hear the responses of people in
town to his words and ideas. I was even invited to have lunch with him, granted
amongst nearly 100 other people, but I was very clearly the only non-Malagasy
in the crowd and for that reason certainly stuck out. It was a tasty fish lunch
at a beautiful hotel in Ampefy, and luckily a good friend of mine who speaks
English was invited as well so we sat together and were able to chat about
politics and the food so that no one else could understand.
That
same weekend, I went to my first concert here in Madagascar of a group called
Mahaleo that has been around since the 1970s. It was really neat to see
Malagasy people of all ages at the concert – older people who knew the group
from their early days, but also a fair number of younger people who
nevertheless knew every word to every song. I promised myself to learn the
lyrics before the next concert so that I can sing along with them. It was a
great time, largely because many of my Prosperer co-workers also attended and
they are a really fun group, dancing and singing the entire time. Since the
concert, I have had many people in town compliment my dancing skills – for better
or worse, it’s impossible to be invisible here!
Today,
I biked out to a neighboring town called Ambatomboro where I have been spending
quite a bit of time lately. It’s about 7 or 8 km outside of Ampefy and is
located right on Lac Itasy. It’s a beautiful place and I really enjoy spending
time with the people that live there, including a women’s association of basket
weavers and the Directrice of the local elementary school and her husband.
Every time I go out there, I inevitably return home with bags full of fresh
green beans, tomatoes, and cucumbers. I anticipate continuing to spend quite a
bit of time out there; not only is it a beautiful bike ride along the lake, but
it’s a town where I see a lot of potential to develop and really improve the
lives of the people that live there. Additionally, it’s the place here where I
feel the most at home – it’s hard for me to describe exactly how but I feel
that my sense of connection to other people is the strongest when I’m there,
perhaps because it is more rural (about 300 people) and they are very open and
kind to me. Regardless, it’s a place I think will stay with me for a long time.
On
my bike ride home, an older man insisted on walking back with me for the part
of the journey. He’s a funny man who I’ve befriended through my visits to
Ambatomboro and from seeing him from time to time in Ampefy. Inevitably, on the
ride home, there are little children who say to me, “Bonjour Vazaha!” which
means “Hi there, foreigner!” Every time, this man yelled back at them “Tsy
Vazaha fa Gasy!” which translates as, “She’s not a foreigner, she’s Malagasy!”
I was not only honored to be considered Malagasy, but got a kick out of how
offended and quick to defend me he was. These outbursts were peppered with
comments about the inefficiencies of the Malagasy government and further
animated by the occasional spitting out of remnants of chewing tobacco. So,
perhaps he’s just a bitter old man, but I hope that I was able to brighten his
day or at least provide some comfort by listening to his ramblings.
Finally,
just a few quick snippets of life here. I have recently been conspiring with
one of my neighbors to steal guavas from her neighbor (not really stealing, we
have permission to take them, but still it’s fun to pretend) and goodness are
they delicious. Also, one of my closest friends and I joke that when we have
children, my son and her daughter will get married, a prospect which never
ceases to be entertaining. Another friend of mine left yesterday for a 3-month
Prosperer training about farming that I helped him sign up for, walking for
over 12km to get there and carrying enough rice on his head to last him two
weeks. There is a little crew of 8 and 9-year-old boys with whom I create all
sorts of secret handshakes and whose faces light up whenever I see them. And of
course the little girls that are too young to really speak Malagasy but are
able to yell my name when I walk past (thank you to my parents for giving me a
name that is easy to say, in any language). Above all, I feel like I am finally
starting to break through the barrier that people here have put up regarding
foreigners and although I recognize that can’t change that overall perception,
I think we are making progress in that direction.